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Napier Precision hood vents?

I've had LeBaron vents on my jeep for years as well and have had zero issues so far. I'd say go for it just make sure all of the seals on the sensors are good & you should be fine. That said hood vents only REALLY help at crawl speeds so if you have genuine cooling system issues you'll get little to no relief using hood vents alone, this is based on my personal experience with having gone down this road myself. Replacing the radiator with a 3 row aluminum one & a 180* stat helped the most.
 
They keep way more water out than the Lebaron vents! Since they also let hot air out, some water could probably get into the engine bay. If you're familiar with the lebaron style vents they let rain straight into the engine bay. On my XJ, all that water (& freezing rain) drenching the engine toasted the TPS.

Can't find a picture that cleanly shows this but the ventilation slots in our hood vents are cut into the vertical face of the vent instead of horizontal like the lebaron vents.


(Click for larger image)

After buying a set of Lebaron vents, and seeing how they went straight through, I had second thoughts, so I bought a set of yours. Plus, I like the look better than the Lebaron ones.. hopefully they work to relieve some heat soak.
 
These kind of questions come up all the time, and I wonder if nobody has ever opened their hood after driving in the rain.

I wonder if anyone who asks this question bothers to search. This argument comes up like once a week.


I have run cool vents that have huge holes in them, directly above the throttle body and all the injectors and spark plugs. Never had an issue with any sensors. I've driven through hurricane force rain and blizzard snows.
 
Here is how I handled the water dumping in through the hood vent issue...

HoodVent3.jpg
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I wonder if anyone who asks this question bothers to search. This argument comes up like once a week.


I have run cool vents that have huge holes in them, directly above the throttle body and all the injectors and spark plugs. Never had an issue with any sensors. I've driven through hurricane force rain and blizzard snows.

I have posted my experience regarding vents, water and the hazards it can do to a TPS...

I have put 'trays' under my hood vents as after just the 1st rain storm on my '01 (after installed hood vents and no trays) my TPS was fried... it got soaked.

After installing some drainage trays under just the Drivers Side Vent, I've had no more problems... your mileage my vary... :)
 
The tps should be sealed, if it fried because it got wet, it was already on its way out. Mine has been fully submerged, dripped on through the vents, and it still works fine. If you are worried about the tps getting wet, put some grease on the connections and seams to keep water out. I'd hate to be in the middle of crossing fordyce and have water fry my tps, but it hasn't happened yet?
 
Thats nice. Other people have had problems with the sensors getting wet, especially the TPS.
My XJ has hood vents, without trays, and has been through many rains, snows and washings without problems
I combat the TPS wetness problem by buttering the plug's contacts with a good amount of dielectric grease and them spraying the whole area with Permatex spray sealant. It forms a thick, heat resistant plastic coating, sealing whatever is under it.
http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...ts/permatex--spray-sealant-leak-repair-detail
The stuff works on all sorts of low/no pressure leaks, sink drains for example. The XJ's AW4 filler tube leaked where it attaches to the pan. The leak was cured with this product. Follow the directions
I also carry a spare TPS, and other sensors, just in case my optimism is unjustified or if the part wears out.
The TPS is a wear item and does require replacement occasionally, no matter if it gets wet or not.
 
And here I was just going to buy some louvered panels off ebay and weld them in.

Mark
 
Honestly, it seems that putting huge trays under the louvers make the vents almost pointless. Should have just put spacers on the hinges to raise the rear of the hood.
 
Honestly, it seems that putting huge trays under the louvers make the vents almost pointless. Should have just put spacers on the hinges to raise the rear of the hood.

ah... no.... The trays I made are open both front and rear. The heat rises and, for lack of a better description, "puddles" under the hood. The amount of heat that roils out of the vents is huge. You can see it as the heat distorts the air. You can also feel a steady stream of air moving up even with the engine off.

What the tray do do, is to redirect the water away from the electrical components. What is not obvious in the photo is that the bottom of the trays are not level to the ground, they slope rearward directing the water to the back.

We get rain here though we mostly get snow. The snow melts and the water runs. I have had these vents in place for quite some time now and have had zero negative issues.

I run an electric water pump as well as electric fans and was having a bit of an issue with the engine temperature not staying where I wanted it. Which is 185 degrees. By cutting these, relatively small, vents into the hood, the issue was resolved. I just had to get a bit more air to run through the radiator. If I had to do over, I would use larger vents. These were just a pair I found in the JY one day. For $5.00, how could I go wrong? The aluminium was sourced at Home Despot. Overall, the vents made a 5 degree C difference in the average temperature.

Would I get better flow without the trays? Yes. Do I want my electrics soaked? No. OEM vents have trays and they work just fine...
 
^ what O-Gauge said...

Trays are not a necessity... and as others have said, they've ran vents for a long time w/NO ill effects. For me, it only took One rain storm after installing the hood vents to ruin my TPS. Not fun w/it happens in the AM when you're getting ready to drive into work, or after a long day at the office and wanting to go home, or leaving a mid-night movie, or ... well, you get my point. It seems that most of my 'XJ failures' happen at the most inopportune time... :)
 
I was thinking of making an aluminum plate to sit over the throttle body yet under the Air hose and sized to cover the sensors (TPS, MAP) on the TB. And with lips added to collect and redirect any water that gets in to the area it should work as effectively as a tray the way I see it. Either that or a full on TB cover (lips bent down) to prevent splashed water ingression as well.
 
I've heard of a plastic cap off a spray can being cut to slip over the TPS working as well... something I've thought about doing as well to see how it works. :)
 
ah... no.... The trays I made are open both front and rear. The heat rises and, for lack of a better description, "puddles" under the hood. The amount of heat that roils out of the vents is huge. You can see it as the heat distorts the air. You can also feel a steady stream of air moving up even with the engine off.

What the tray do do, is to redirect the water away from the electrical components. What is not obvious in the photo is that the bottom of the trays are not level to the ground, they slope rearward directing the water to the back.

We get rain here though we mostly get snow. The snow melts and the water runs. I have had these vents in place for quite some time now and have had zero negative issues.

I run an electric water pump as well as electric fans and was having a bit of an issue with the engine temperature not staying where I wanted it. Which is 185 degrees. By cutting these, relatively small, vents into the hood, the issue was resolved. I just had to get a bit more air to run through the radiator. If I had to do over, I would use larger vents. These were just a pair I found in the JY one day. For $5.00, how could I go wrong? The aluminium was sourced at Home Despot. Overall, the vents made a 5 degree C difference in the average temperature.

Would I get better flow without the trays? Yes. Do I want my electrics soaked? No. OEM vents have trays and they work just fine...

Do you have a top pic of the vents?

This is why I got the Napier ones... I didn't want to fab up the trays underneath. I'm not one to walk around with holes in my umbrella.
 
I cooked my TPS the first wheeling trip with my Z34 vents without my drip pans in. Yeah, I was a dumbass and though it looks like its gonna be clear....as soon as I got south of Lexington it poured for 2 hours. started it up in the morning and it was idling at like 1700. that said, the TPS I took out did not have a rubber grommet in it, the new one I got had one so I put it in. I'm guessing that will make the new TPS a lot more tolerant of getting water on it.
 
Those vents are tiny. And you have drip trays. Air is not flowing smoothly through the radiator and out the vents when you are driving. Plus they are super close to the cowl, meaning you might even be pushing air into the vents at speed.

That's fine and all, but I don't think that is reducing the coolant temp of your engine at all. And you're running a 4.0L at 185* with a supercharger??
 
Those vents are tiny. And you have drip trays. Air is not flowing smoothly through the radiator and out the vents when you are driving. Plus they are super close to the cowl, meaning you might even be pushing air into the vents at speed.

That's fine and all, but I don't think that is reducing the coolant temp of your engine at all. And you're running a 4.0L at 185* with a supercharger??

Not to step on O-Gauges' potential response....

But since he and I are running similar hood vents and trays... for ME, it wasn't about cooling off the coolant, it was about the boiling heat that pools under the hood of my '01, due partly to the pre-cats that sit under the intake, fuel injectors and fuel lines. When sitting idling in my jeep, or in slow traffic, and then parking (say to run in to school to pick up my kid, or run in to the gas station, or Starbucks, etc...) my engine bay would get SO hot it lent to vapor lock and POOR starting and driving after this day to day situation. The hole size(s) cut in my hood are ~ 8" x 5"... and two of them. That's a LOT of opening for the hot air to escape. :)

After installing the hood vents that problem went away. They let enough heat out when parked and/or slow speeds that they work for me. Plus I like the way they look. :)
 
Those vents are tiny. And you have drip trays. Air is not flowing smoothly through the radiator and out the vents when you are driving. Plus they are super close to the cowl, meaning you might even be pushing air into the vents at speed.

That's fine and all, but I don't think that is reducing the coolant temp of your engine at all. And you're running a 4.0L at 185* with a supercharger??

Actually, it runs at 195 degrees as stated. The 185 T-Stat is in the system only to provide a bit of back pressure, in the cylinder head, to enhance the flow of coolant to the heater core. I run a Davies-Craig EWP115 electric water pump, not a mechanical pump.

As for the placement of the vents, I did run the "yard test". To do this, you tape small (1" or so) bits of yard all over the area of the hood that you are interested in. Then, you take it for a drive and look for the area in which the yarn tries to stand up in. Failing standing up (mine did...) you look for the spot where the cowl influence stops. The pressure wave from the windshield will point the yarn toward the front of the vehicle. To extract heat, stay away from that area and all is well.

Actual placement depends upon the target speed at which you wish the vents to function at their best. For high speed, immediately after the radiator is best as it dumps the most air out of the radiator core Witness the number of racing vehicle (The Ford GT40 comes to mind) that have the vents located there. Venting at the extreme back of the hood will provide a method to introduce air into the bay at speed owing to the pressure wave developed by the windshield.

The issue I had was at slow speeds, not highway driving. Such being the case, the vents were placed for best extraction at low speeds.

The Supercharger does not, in and of itself, generate much in the way of heat. As long as the mixture and timing are correct, the engine temperatures should run just as a stock engine do.

The 4.0L has a nasty reputation for running hot. This is due to the fact that the vehicle was not originally designed for the engine. It was designed for either the 2.5L I4 or the 2.8L V6. For those engines, plenty of room is available for a radiator. BUT, when the 4.0L was shoe horned into place (witness the firewall clearancing...) getting rid of the extra heat became an issue.

This is not news. Without due diligence in maintaining the cooling system they will, all of them, over heat. We have very little extra capacity on the system to allow for poor maintenance.

I am curious though... How is it that although you have never even been in my Heep, you know all about how well it operates? Very Curious indeed. I would suggest that you do not have the direct experience.

If you wish to not believe me, that is certainly your prerogative. I do not require that you do. I can say, with complete confidence, that the vents made the difference between being able to run the EWP115 and having to remove it and go back to the stock mechanical setup.

So, as my input obviously has no merit for you, peace out dude...
 
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