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If the engine runs, the gauge cluster issue is unrelated. If the engine does not run, the gauge cluster issue is a symptom, not a root cause.
Here is some relevant info I have gathered:
If you have both a P1694 and P1698 suspect a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). The CPS must be...
Pictures of "gray plug"?
For 1996+ Jeeps, the OBD-II engine computer (ECU/PCM) re-boots, and the idle settings are deleted, when you: (1) let the battery run down by leaving the lights or radio on, (2) disconnect the battery for an extended period of time, (3) when the battery goes bad and...
Most often a fresh malfunction is caused by the last repair or modification. I would suspect the injectors.
Cat converter service life is about 100 - 150,000 miles.
Does your OBD-II trouble code reader do live data so you can observe the fuel trims?
Take the insurance money and let them total it. Buy it back and fix it.
Used parts are still very common in the junkyards, buy a Chry 8.25 axle to replace what is very likely a damaged axle. If the rim doesn't show signs of damage, and runs true with no wobble, it probably is OK.
The Jeep 4.0L is a 1960's engine design, any oil and some ZDDP will meet its' needs. Don't overthink it, just change oil every 4-6,000 with whatever oil is on sale.
Does the XJ have Factory installed fog lamps?
The relays on the Chinesium wire harnesses are often just junk. Honda relays are a direct replacement and everything works right. I grab a handful at the junkyard.
The Honda part number is 39797-SE0-004 and you can find them at the junkyard...
1996 was the first year of OBD-II and some modern trouble code readers may have difficulties connecting. Try another brand of Trouble Code reader.
If it runs, the PCM is probably fine. Will it display trouble codes on the Check Engine Light?
Without starting the engine Turn the ignition...
The Jeep in-line 6 cylinder engines have never been known for their smooth idle. Fuel injection improves the lumpy idle, but you should see/feel the idle my CJ-7 has.
If the tune-up parts are fresh, the coil tests good, it runs well without stalling, and the gas mileage is in spec, it is fine.
Follow the service intervals and fluid recommendations specified in your Owners Manual or your Dealership Shop Service Manual. I use the severe service intervals.
Regular fluid changes are far more important than the brand name, the oil weight, or synthetic vs. regular oil. I use 10w-40...
The Hunter Road Force machine will advise the operator that break down and a tire spin is necessary.
The locally owned independent shop I go to, the shop manger and several of the crew have been at this same shop for +20 years, and I see of them on the 4x4 trails too.
Unless you used an acetylene torch and got them cherry red hot, they are fine. Ugly, but usable. I would source good used replacements with the larger u-joints, $18 each at my local Pic-n-Pull.
Proper tools save time, and prevent curse words, damage, and added expenses.
My 1998 has +290,000 and the original injectors, except for two that cracked, and were replaced with junkyard parts. If the injectors aren't broke, they don't need fixing.